Harvesting Il Pingro!
The train from Milan to Grosseto is completely full, with many tourists and Italian families taking the opportunity to enjoy the last days of summer by the sea. In the late afternoon on the first Friday in September, I roll into the train station, and Margherita from Il Pingro picks me up in a large white van, loaded with empty plastic trays to be used in the harvest.
At the house, we arrive to see the large pine tree (Il Pingrosso) majestically against the evening sky. Little swift bats circle around the tree. More friends from Milan have joined just before me, with an earlier train, and we toast to celebrate the weekend and the evening before going into Castiglione della Pescaia for a pizza. The pizzaiolo cheers when our Pingro crew appears, he hangs their T-shirt on the end of the table and immediately opens a bottle of their white wine which Margherita brings around for the other restaurant guests to taste.
The following morning we get up at 05:30 to eat a generous breakfast of home-baked sweets; fig cake, apple cake, Neapolitan pastries, and coffee of course. The morning air is fresh and we jump into the white van to get to the vineyard. The Sangiovese is ready to be harvested, the bunches are large and juicy. We walk in pairs on either side of the vines and cut the bunches while small talking, careful not to touch each other's eager hands. We have put the red plastic boxes along the vines and they are quickly filled with juicy bunches. We continue until the sun starts to warm up a lot and some more before we take a break and a sun-ripened peach from the lunch bag, where there are also more pastries.
The harvest goes on all morning while the boxes are filled and then loaded into the van. When we pack up and drive towards the cantina to press the grapes, it is heavy on muddy and sometimes narrow roads. Dario has rolled out his stainless steel press and is ready when Margherita backs in the car. Everyone has a task; someone pours the grapes into the press, someone gets the stems away, the hose must be kept in place in the tank and the plastic boxes must be cleaned after they are emptied. The finest bunches are selected and put directly into the cement tank. The work is efficient and soon all the grapes are pressed, the boxes and the press are cleaned and we go back to the farm for a late lunch before the highlight of the evening, the dinner by Nonna Nada.
Nada is the head of the family and she has worked for days to prepare tonight's dinner. There is tortelli of various kinds, parmigiana, cheese and charcuterie, fresh figs, and of course wine. More winemakers join and even though we are tired after a long day, we sit up and talk until late. I ask Chiara and Margherita if they are happy. No, they say, now the work begins in the cellar.